Arriving over the Andes into Santiago

Day 1-

August 3rd 2009 and Gareth and I meet all the team in Santiago airport in the infamous ‘Gatsby’ restaurant and from there the adventure began, as all 15 of this years group have there first get together over lunch it becomes unfortunately apparent that some luggage is missing. This year we chose a bigger time window between the international and internal flight so we had time to give details of our onward route and contacts for the luggage to follow. We all boarded the LAN Chile flight to Osorno and then a short transfer to the magnificent hotel Puyuhue, where the group had time to settle in and freshen up for dinner.

Day 2

Following an extensive breakfast buffet we loaded up the ski gear and headed out on the 45 min drive through the temperate rainforest of the Puyuhue national park to our first ski area ‘Antillanca’ as any of you who have been with us or read the previous Chile blogs will know we visit the more remote and characteristic areas. Antillanca is no exception with only 4 lifts and a ski elevation of 1020-1700m. The weather however was to cut our day short, as we skied the morning and then the wind picked up and caused the lifts to close early. We returned then to the hotel to enjoy the spa, with some of the group taking advantage of the use of the hotels mountain bikes to explore the surrounding area. The evening meal was a vast and varied salad and hot buffet to please every palate, complimented this year by the hotel becoming all inclusive, so the pisco sours were flowing.

Day 3

We awoke to a heavy rainstorm and winds and after consultation with Guido our ‘Baqueano montanista’ we decided to make the call to pack and leave for Argentina a half day early. The forecast was for the storm to clear as the day grew on, the journey over the pass and Argentinean border took us through fabulous scenery and as the storm clouds broke the half metre of fresh snow lay heavy on the trees giving Gareth and I confidence in our decision.
We arrived at the Dos Bahias hotel in Villa Angostura by 2pm and with a quick turnaround and a sandwich we were skiing fresh powder snow by 3! The conditions were better than we had expected & imagined, the snow was soft, fresh and the clouds broke giving us vistas to die for. And worry not if you have any safety concerns about chair lifts in Argentina because according to a conversation today between third time Chile adventurer ‘Barbie’ and first time adventurer Sarah Smalley there are seat belts on the chair lifts! ☺. Bring on tomorrow…..

Day 4

A full day in Cerro Bayo today and with the fresh snow and the possibility of the opening of the ‘Lagon’ top chair lift this meant we were in for a real treat. This is the first of our 2 Argentinean ski areas on the 09 tour and it’s a self proclaimed ‘ski boutique’ a small yet well structured ski area overlooking the Nahuel Huapi lake and with amazing views for miles in all directions. Guido’s Swiss magic somehow managed to get his group up the ever closed top chair giving access to the short summit walk (20 mins) and some amazing fresh powder on the back bowls, Gareth also in the closing minutes before lunch signed his life away as responsible for his group and its actions to make the summit, leaving my group as the only ones not to experience the untracked powder fields before lunch. The day was clearly not going to end this way and suitably re-fuelled on empanadas (small local meat filled pastries) and with the chair lift still closed we attached the skis to our packs and made the short 45 min hike to the top with a suitable reward. A day of epic proportion was finished off with an Argentinean bbq in one of the local restaurants and a huge chocolate cake to celebrate returning Snoworks adventurer Sioban Healy’s birthday. Happy birthday Sioban from Lee, Gareth and all the Snoworks 2009 team, that will be one to remember.

Kate the I.S.I.A snow angel

Day 10

The staff had spent some time the night before deliberating over various Chile weather maps, and had decided today’s decision needed making that morning, if there was a weather window we would go for a summit attempt of ‘Mocho’ volcano and if not we would enjoy the other activities on offer - horse riding, canopy, and guided walks to the waterfall & puma spotting! Disappointingly a huge storm came in bringing heavy winds and rain, so even going outside wasn’t a wise move so ‘Peruda’ tournaments and the excellent (new for 09) spa and pool facilities became the call of the day. It’s all an adventure. After a pasta lunch in the hotel Boabab we packed up and made the short journey to Villarrica and checked into the ‘Bauhaus’ style hotel Antumalal, which has the most amazing views across the lake on which it is set aside. A Chilean meat bbq was served and after very little wine and Peruda, all retired to there rooms as tomorrow morning would see a 6am start for our attempt on the 2847m Villarrica volcano.

Day 11

Words by Tony Daw (Snoworks client)-

To hit the weather window another early start was in order. Leaving the hotel in the dark, we made new tyre tracks through fresh snow on the way up to the base station of Villarrica. Only one truck went by as we stopped to attach chains and the skies began to lighten. The lifts were still closed so we set off on skins from the car park. Initial progress was good even with some of the group not having skinned before. As the slopes got more icy and steeper we switched to crampons shouldering the skis. Progress slowed and we stopped for lunch still with some way to go, but within sight of our goal, the top having cleared and the sulphurous clouds clearly visible. The views from here were spectacular, with Lliama’s summit clearly visible behind us, the high cloud base occasionally letting some sunshine through. With the now slow progress the weather window was passing and the winds increased substantially. On the last haul up to the crater rim this was fortunately at our backs, but visibility at the top was disappointing and the clouds of steam occasionally choking. We couldn’t see into the crater, but had no wish to investigate the top further. In the 70kmh winds it was important to hang on to everything and difficult to prepare for the decent. Dropping over a sharp lip on the East side we descended a 400m 38-degree ice sheet into blizzard conditions. Turning left, we traversed straight into the teeth of the wind still dropping to get below the ridge ahead. This got us out of the wind but necessitated an agonisingly slow sidestep climb to get over a rocky bluff. That was the last of the light! With only 3 head torches between 14, it was fortunate that at this point the snow conditions were superb with excellent soft powder. Now back in calmer conditions the descent was steady, but safe. Nevertheless the appearance of pisted slopes and the ground crew at the bottom was a sight for sore eyes. It was supposed to have taken us 5hrs. 9hrs up and 3hrs down was a test for almost everyone’s fitness. Guido’s and Lee’s abilities as guides and instructors shone through in the most testing of conditions at the top, Guido arriving at the top carrying 3 pairs of skis. Keeping the group together through blizzard conditions on the descent was no mean feat whilst maintaining good spirit and determination.

Quotes following the summit experience-

“The Villarrica climb 2009 was one of the hardest climbs what we ever had, without any help of the ski resort we get to the summit, skinning on ice parts, walking on granulated snow and a very strong wind (70km/hr), really extreme hard conditions.” (Guido Shilling - Amity)

“In summary, a day that will live in memory - but perhaps not in song.” (Charles Griffin)

“I’ve never done this before!” (Terry Lander)

“This is the hardest thing I have ever done in my life.” (Peter Craggs”)

“Third time lucky – a 12 hour epic.” (Lee Townend-Snoworks)

“I finally understood what Phil Smith meant about feeling the snow through your feet, as we skied down the powder – in the dark.” (Sioban Healy)

“The best weight loss program there is.” (Barbie)

“Bloody brilliant.” (Brian Wallace)

“The toughest challenge I’ve ever faced – I’ll be reliving it for years.” (Kate Busschau)

Day 12

Today was and always has been pencilled in as a rest day, and never has it been needed more, the log fire and a warming silent camaraderie gave off an aura of safety and reassurance within the group. Most of the party relaxing in the hotel with a small group making the pilgrimage into Pucon for any final Chilean gifts and souvenirs. Following lunch the group split with one van taking a party to the ‘Huife’ hot springs, outdoor thermal pools heated by volcanic lava, enriched with invigorating and relaxing rock minerals. The remainder went to ‘Huepilmalal’ equestrian centre.

Words by Peter Craggs (Snoworks client)-

We travelled in trepidation in the pouring rain, but were welcomed warmly by Rodolfo Coombs the centre owner (whom also trains the Spanish Olympic show jumping team), and even more welcoming by receiving a poncho and chaps in order to keep us dry. Terry announced on more than one occasion ‘having not done this before” but with a leg up was on his way. After a brief tutorial on the 1-handed method of Spanish riding we set off through the wet forest. Although Terry claimed he nearly came off three times we all stayed on for the whole ride, and enjoyed magnificent vistas from the top of the hills that we rode with a summit altitude of 1000m. After three quarters of an hour we came to a dead stop from a fallen tree, however Rodolfo jumped from his steed and removed his machete and chopped it down in a matter of moments. Winding our way down an hour and a half later really dry even though the rain stayed strong. After dismounting Rodolfo cracked open a welcoming bottle of red wine and for the first time in two hours Terry smiled as he announced, “That’s the first time I’ve ever done that!” following which we enjoyed a second bottle of Rodolfo’s red wine. A great afternoon followed by a quick dip into the hot springs and a fantastic dinner.

"I've never done this before!"

Day 13

As we made the drive from Pucon to Corralco lodge in Araucaria our final ski destination, the weather was mixed and gave us hope of a break from the storm of the last 2 days. The snow lay heavily on the road up to the lodge and the breaks in the cloud gave us the vigour for a quick lunch and to get out skiing. Corralco ski area is unique in the fact that all though it is open to the public, in 3 years of coming I’ve yet to see any! It is quiet literally our private ski area, surrounded by monkey puzzle trees and set beautifully on the snow line giving us ski-in ski-out facility with 1 drag and 1 chair lift. The wind however was too high for the lifts to be working but that would not prevent team 09 getting to the powder at the foothills of Lonquimay volcano. Guido attached a series of ropes, slings and karabiners to the piste machine and we were towed to the summit of the chair. We all skied untracked snow from the summit to the lodge, a great start to our 3 days here.

Day 14

The first of 2 full days skiing in Corralco was not to be the attempt on Lonquimay volcano as the clouds were low and the wind was high. Instead the piste basher would today be our means of ascent. Guido set the ropes up and the clients jumped into their harnesses and were clipped on and we were towed up to the summit of the chair. Fantastic powder snow gave a fabulous mornings skiing, assessing the wind direction we chose certain slope aspects and gullies and skied the whole morning as a team. With Guido leading the way, and Gareth and I sweeping and giving technical and tactical tips, this was definitely a day for coaching on the move in order to maximise skiing time. As the cloud parted I took the opportunity of shooting some video of everyone skiing the ‘Cowtain’ gulley only accessed in previous years by skinning. Great skiing from everyone, then down to the lodge for lunch. We later found out that the poor guy driving the piste machine was actually the mechanic! Hence he didn’t really know where he was going, so this caused a few falls, several tows in the wrong direction, and nearly getting it stuck in a hollow. The afternoon was to be a group split with Guido taking a party on short yet scenic skin through the araucarias trees and the rest of us again using the facility of the piste machine. The wind kept the lifts closed all day, but that didn’t stop us providing Corralco with our own Snoworks signature, the only tracks in the snow were ours, and there was a whole lot left for tomorrow.

Day 15

The weather was better and therefore Guido made the call that today he would make an attempt on the volcano with a select chosen group – Brian, Sioban, & Kate. We all took the piste basher to above the chair lift and from there they set off skinning to the summit.