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- November, 2007
...drivers continue to engage in road-combat during the holiest of holidays in this Catholic country.
Kids are out of school, government employees are off work, many are on vacation for most of the month and churches can become standing room only gathering places for several generations of entire families.
The mood of Costa Rica as a whole is festive and congenial with importance placed on family, friends and life - except on the roadways where it remains a dog-eat-dog selfish brawl between; flying metal mosquitoes (aka: irritating buzzing little motorcycles in every nook of open roadway and sidewalks), crash-test dummies (aka: drivers of cars, taxis, SUVs, trucks and buses that ignore all unenforced rules of the road) and road bumps (aka: humans unlucky enough to be crossing streets or on sidewalks when mosquitoes or crash-test dummies go flying through).
They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so the build-up to this subject is now complete. The following are pictures taken within the past 6 days while driving in the San Jose central valley area of Costa Rica that should be worth 8,000 words:
Additional pictures taken recently, but more than a week old:
And what would a Christmas blog be without a picture of a local tradition?!
The following photo was taken this morning ... again, the picture should speak for itself (with just a little extra help from the Photoshop text tool ;o):
Happy Holidays - Merry Christmas - Feliz Navidad - Happy Hanukkah - Happy Ramadan - Happy Kwanzaa - Happy Winter Solstice - Happy New Year - Feliz Nuevo Ano - and all those not mentioned!
Drive safe during your holiday, especially in Costa Rica ... so we can all enjoy the next year together!
¡Pura Vida, Seguridad y Tráfico!
Costa Rica driving and traffic related articles:
- Costa Rica's New Traffic Laws - Take Effect September 23, 2009 March 1, 2010
- Costa Rica Cars Don’t Share Roads Well With Bicycles
- The Luckiest Man (still) ALIVE in Costa Rica
- Black Friday - 19 Hours No Electricity
- Costa Rica Traffic Sign Suggestions (humor)
- Cost Rica Car Security - Protect Yourself, Your Investment and Your Valuables
- How to Navigate Costa Rica by Car - with a GPS Device and Digital Map
- Buying or Importing a Car in Costa Rica
- Costa Rica Gas Prices
- Getting a Costa Rica Drivers License - "Do Not Smile"
U.S. ‘expats’ that now reside in Costa Rica try to explain the Tico culture to their families and friends back home as, "Costa Rica is like the United States was 40 years ago”. In other words, many of the social norms and government problems the U.S. went through in the 1960’s are still experienced today in Costa Rica.
While this may not be a fair comparison on many levels, it is a quick and easy way of explaining some of the Costa Rica societal situations – along with perhaps the expected vision that Costa Rica will soon catch-up with the more developed nations in many aspects of government and life.
One such cultural characteristic of Costa Rica that is both deep rooted and unfortunately very public is a lack of respect for their own law enforcement … a common aspect of the 60’s U.S. culture (thus the ‘stepping back in time’ comparisons).
“Largate, largate” … or ‘beat it’, ‘go away’ was yelled by many in the crowd at the recent San José Festival de la Luz celebration whenever Costa Rica police would walk by on the parade route.
Valid arguments to justify mistrust by the general Costarricense public of government police agencies include; lack of qualifications or education for recruits, poor initial training, little or no in-service training and corruption from top officials down to the street-level officer.
Both Fuerza Pública national police and Policía Municipal city police have a heavy
presence in the Costa Rica capital of San José – however, it can be hard to find a police
officer in many outlying and rural areas.
The mistrust of Costa Ricans does not end with the effectiveness of the police, but of the entire criminal justice system. Too often the few criminals that are actually apprehended by the frequently scarce and slow to respond police are not even prosecuted with ‘lack of evidence’ cited as the main reason.
This broken system leaves Costa Rica citizens’ feeling the only real solution is to take matters into their own hands – especially when it comes to petty crime and repeat local offenders that plague a neighborhood, often referred to as "ladrones".
This Costa Rica thief was stripped down to his socks when residents of San Pedro
de Montes de Oca came to the rescue of a young man who had had his cell phone stolen.
The thief had hidden the phone in his privates.
The United States found the solution to improving its own police problems was to professionalize law enforcement. Active and public pursuits of police corruption, expectations of more accountability, better training, higher standards for police recruits and improved salaries to attract better officers all resulted in a better social image and increased respect for police by the American public.
New Costa Rica Fuerza Pública national police officers attend expanded academy classroom training.
Costa Rica although limited in resources, has the benefit of examples set by other nations when it comes to a blueprint for improving police effectiveness and crime reduction. Costa Rica recognizes public relations, confidence, trust and the cooperation of its own citizens is vital to long-term success.
Current President Oscar Arias’ administration and the Costa Rica legislature have attempted to reform many aspects of the criminal justice system.
This past year the Poder Judicial or Costa Rica court system instituted Tribunales de Flagrancia to combat clogged courts that have in the past released criminals back onto the streets for months if not years before bringing them to fractured versions of justice. The new system allows suspects caught in the act of a crime to be tried, convicted and sentenced within several hours. This trial program has been so successful in the San José capital area that it is expected to go nationwide in 2010.
Members of the Costa Rica Fuerza Pública national police force attend a public forum
on domestic violence at the University of Costa Rica (Universidad de Costa Rica – UCR).
Costa Rica Minister of Security (Ministerio de Seguridad Pública) Janina del Vecchio has publicly encouraged the reporting of police misconduct, pursued criminal charges against crooked police officials and put the entire national law enforcement community on notice that corruption will no longer be tolerated.
In addition to improving the system itself, Costa Rica law enforcement is getting more aggressive in pursuing the bad guys.
The Limón Province (Provincia de Limón) of Costa Rica that consists of the entire Caribbean coast from Panama to Nicaragua has increasingly been a security issue. Some areas had reportedly become almost lawless due to violent crimes committed by drug gangs in the business of trafficking cocaine from South America manufacturers to North America consumers.
Costa Rica Fuerza Pública national police gather for a morning directed patrol exercise.
The Costa Rica Fuerza Pública (national police force), Guardacostas (coast guard), Policía de Control de Drogas (PCD - drug enforcement police) and Organismo de Investigación Judicial agents (OIJ - Judicial Investigating Organization) have all been actively involved in Limón Province crime sweeps resulting in many arrests, the confiscation of large amounts of weapons and drugs, and a general interruption of many organized criminal enterprises that had operated freely in the past – resulting in a reported 23 percent reduction in area murders.
Since the beginning of the Arias administration in May 2006; the Security Ministry budget has gone from 62 billion colones ($111 million USD) to 124 billion colones ($221 million USD) proposed for the 2010 budget.
Costa Rica OIJ agents (Judicial Investigating Organization) and evidence technicians work a
crime scene in Vasquez de Coronado. The mid-day attempted armed robbery of a Sucre Farmacia
(pharmacy) was unsuccessful with three suspects and their black Honda CR-V taken into custody.
Additionally, in the last 3.5 years; 40,000 police officers have been added to Costa Rica agencies nationwide, a new tourist police force (Policía Turística) has been established to provide directed security for high tourist areas, law enforcement base wages have increased 25% and 92,974 kilos of cocaine have been seized in Costa Rica due to a coordinated drug interdiction program between Costa Rica, the United States, Columbia, Panama and Mexico.
Although reports from the Costa Rica Judicial Investigating Organization (OIJ) show January through November 2009 San José murders had decreased, robberies were down 4.9 percent and home invasions down 8.8 percent … recent polls show Costa Ricans feel that crime is getting worse.
Security remains the number one concern of Costa Rica citizens and the 2010 Costa Rica presidential candidates are all addressing national security within their respective campaign platforms.
Progress is coming; it will just take some time – as it has in every other developing nation.
For additional information on regional drug trafficking, see the article: "Costa Rica Latest Stop for Mexican Drug Gangs" at The Costa Rica Frog
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Bottoms are big in San José and, indeed, in all Costa Rica. In case yours isn't significant enough to be noticed, a girl can actually buy padded bum enhancers. Just ask, at a lingerie store, for a "bloomer relleno"(Spanish for stuffing). That out of the way, there are other important things a visitor should know about San José.
San José de la Boca del Monte had its beginnings in the 19th century, when free land was allotted to anyone willing to plant coffee. The early settlement was so insignificant and impenetrable the Spanish conquerors didn't bother to fortify San José. In 1948, President José Ferrer abolished the country's superfluous army.
Today, San José, smack-dab in the centre of the country, is surrounded by coffee cafetals, banana plantations, cloud forests and mountains, stretching east to the Caribbean and west to the Pacific. San José remains a colonial city and, culturally, has yet to go beyond its sleepy beginnings. And therein lies its charm. Yes, there is a McDonald's overlooking a main square — a hideous cement slab - where families congregate on weekends to throw grain at zillions of pigeons. Pretty well, everything worth seeing is within a 15-minute walk of Central Park, the heart of the city.
SIGHTSEEING: The National Theatre [El Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica], an ornate structure with romantic murals, marble columns and classical sculpture, is the most popular tourist destination in San José. This lovely edifice was funded in the 1890s by means of a heavy tax on coffee production. Wags said at the time: "Costa Rica was a village,surrounded by a National Theatre." In the theatre, the Britt Cafe,reminiscent of a Belle Epoque European coffee house, serves delectable lunches, pastries and Britt coffee, from its own plantation.
The Mail and Telegraph (Correos y Telégrafos de Costa Rica) building, an elaborate green structure with spires and cupolas, was built in 1914. Here you can mail your postcards, visit the Stamp Museum [El Museo Filatélico] and duck into the Cafe de Correos, to regroup, away from pedestrian mobs and cars intent on murder. The cafe brews excellent coffee and do take the trip to the servicios (washrooms), through corridors of thousands of private mail boxes with locals peering into them.
Inside the Gold Museum [Museos del Banco Nacional; Museo del Oro Precolombino], accessed through a giant bank vault, the walls and fittings are an extravaganza of exotic Costa Rican woods and the displays of dazzling pre-Colombian gold objects awesome. Interestingly, there have never been gold mines in Costa Rica. Gold was (and is) panned in mountain streams. The gold work, with motifs similar to those found in Colombia, Mexico and Panama, indicates the indigenous peoples carried on a vibrant trade throughout Central America. (By the way, the only official tourist office, in San José, is in the same complex as the gold museum. In March, the tourism bureau launched a glossy English language pamphlet featuring a walking tour of the city.)
The Jade Museum [Museo del Jade], in the Institute of National Security headquarters, is a treasure trove of carved jade, ceramics and indigenous domestic artefacts. Although there are no jade sources in Costa Rica, hordes of decorative objects were found in archaeological sites. The well-documented displays offer a fascinating insight into the lives of regional tribes, including the Bribri, who still reside in traditional villages on the Caribbean coast.
The most delightful respite from the confusion that is San José is in the Spirogyra Butterfly Garden, in Amon. The enclosed compound guarantees a constant shower of colourful butterflies, including the giant blue morpho. Don't be surprised if a butterfly lands on your shoulder. As one visitor commented, "This place lightens the heart." Take a book, sit and marvel surrounded by flutterbys and tropical plants.
DINING: Ticos (Costa Ricans) eat simply and cheaply in sodas (local cafes). The Mercado Central, established in 1880 is an ideal spot to sample a causa, the national dish consisting of meat, rice, beans and coleslaw (about $4 U.S.). Grab a seat at one of the many 1950s-style diners in the market — also the home of Costa Rica's first ice cream. Visit the counter at La Sorbetera de Lolo Moro and try Moro's original frozen confection. Made with crushed vanilla beans, it teases the tongue with overtones of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Las Delicias de Peru, a neat clean soda, has a friendly chef dishing up inexpensive Peruvian specialties at noon. Try the chicharro de calamar (squid), yellow potatoes stuffed with shrimp and steamed sea bass (corvina). Cafe Mundo caters to a lively international crowd. It's lodged in a colonial mansion, with art deco furnishings, vivid artworks, verandas and garden tables, a rarity in San José. Offerings include patacones (plantain chips), pizza, chicken and vegetarian dishes.
For a fancy evening, head for the Hotel Grano de Oro, in [Paseo Colon] (taxi, $8). The opulent dining room, operated by a Winnipeg couple, is festooned with lavish draperies and outfitted with gorgeous wood, stained glass and marble columns. This establishment also has a glam courtyard, New York-style bar and an excellent chef whose specialties include lamb chops, with fig puree, and Pie Grano deOro, a coffee cream and chocolate dream.
Costa Rica's supermarkets, such as the Auto Mercado, and Super Saretto sell take-out food, booze and the usual groceries. But, best of all, you can load up on the country's best export coffee —Toscafe Orosi, Dota and Britt. There's no customs' limit on the amount you can take home.
SHOPPING: Outside the Mercado Central, Avenida Central [del boulevard] becomes a pedestrian shopping street. Opposite the market, there's a string of old-fashioned dry goods stores selling lingerie, PJs and, yes, bloomer rellenos, while the Universal, a retro department store, appears to specialize in housewares. Further along, the Carrion (carry on) stocks two floors of fashionable tropical duds and a seductive assortment of glamorous sandals, espadrilles and wedgies — starting at $10. For those serious about native arts and crafts, the spot to stop is Galeria Namu, a store dedicated to authentic aboriginal work including exquisite baskets, woven by the Wounaan tribe. It can take months to weave one large basket, thus prices range from $150 to $2,000 (U.S.). Namu also sells jewellery and miniature animals carved from tegua "ivory.'' Tegua, a palm nut, has the properties of animal ivory and is every bit as beautiful. The carvings are similar to Japanese netsuke. Bracelets,start at $8 (U.S.), while complex birds and animals are priced upwards of $75 (U.S).
SLEEPING: San José has a good selection of atmospheric inner-city hotels, starting with the Hotel Gran de Costa Rica, next to the National Theatre. The Gran, the place to be seen, has a lovely vintage lobby and a long alfresco arcade that is the closest thing San Jose has to a sidewalk cafe. There's cocktail piano and a smart food and bar menu. Try the addictive fresh hearts of palm (palmetto) salad. The Gran was built in 1928, by government decree,because there wasn't a first-class hotel in the entire country. The contractor was granted "a series of fiscal benefits" (wink, wink) in exchange for setting aside two ritzy suites for lodging foreign diplomats and VIPs. President Oscar Arias entertains here and you could find yourself at a table next to his party.
The Britannia and the Don Carlos, both in historical colonial buildings, are all wood, tile and tropical plants - simply charming. The Britannia has an atmospheric restaurant in its antique wine cellar and at the Don Carlos, a pleasant cafe serves local specialties all day. Then there's Las Cinco Horangas Rojas (Five Red Ants), an eccentric bed and breakfast, in an old Tico house. Inside the walled garden a variety of birds and critters scurry about and colourful artworks, by owner Mayra Guell, boggle. Guell describes her garden as a mini -ecosystem. Rooms are cramped, but the breakfast venue, actually a grass shack, makes up for them. All three hostelries are, in Amon, a short walk to the main drag and double room run about $60 to $120 (U.S.).
Further afield, in San Rafael [de Heredia], the Hotel Bougainville is set in eight acres of garden and park, where 60 orchid species and hot pink bougainvillea accost the senses. The park also boasts 15 heliconia varieties, 50 bird species, a classic privet maze, garden sculpture and a rancho with artefacts from an old sugar mill. The hotel, run by a Swiss family, has an excellent restaurant and services that cater to foreigners. A taxi to the city centre costs $10 (U.S.).
EXCURSION: A morning trip to the beautiful Britt Coffee Plantation, in suburban Heredia, is a must-do. Visitors learn about coffee via a multimedia presentation by three comedic actor-guides, who perform a hilarious stage play. (Fact learned: Britt sends coffee to Germany to be decaffeinated. The white powder, from the process, is sold to pharmaceutical companies and Coca Cola.) The tour also includes a giant roaster, a coffee cupping (tasting) demo and a tramp between rows of coffee bushes. The experience ends with an excellent Tico buffet lunch ($35 U.S.). Call 1-800-462-7488 or inquire at any hotel in San José.
SIDEBAR
LISTEN UP: San José's pot-holed inner city roads, now jammed with cars, were built for oxcarts. There are no firm addresses in San José. Do not consider driving. Taxis are cheap. Closed walking shoes are mandatory. All sidewalks are uneven and pocked with ditches, gaping holes and metal protrusions. Perhaps, the rainy season and earthquakes have something to do with this, but most Ticos agree sidewalks are low priority, in a country, where the masses discovered the automobile only a decade ago. Any available money goes to maintaining (sort of) the rocky, muddy,eroding rural roads. Tourists cannot help but notice decorative iron gates and bars on all windows. Be aware anything not nailed down will be stolen. Your body is not at risk, just your purse and objects left in cars. Pamphlets, at tourists' attractions, instruct foreigners in the art of guarding their belongings.
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Costa Rica Blogger's Notes
It was The Week Before Christmas and All Through Costa Rica....Dec 23, 2009
Costa Rica Police, Crime Fighting and Security are Not Often Considered SynonymousDec 17, 2009
A Tour of the Capital - San José, Costa RicaDec 12, 2009
Costa Rica Firearms Review Complete – 26 Foreigners Lose Gun PermitsDec 10, 2009
Montana Expat Learns to "Love The Rain" in Puerto Viejo, Costa RicaDec 8, 2009
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Costa Rica Blogger - Our 2 Year AnniversaryNov 26, 2009
Costa Rica Blogger - Our 2 Year AnniversaryNov 26, 2009
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Costa Rica Reviews Gun Permits – Suspends Licenses to Foreign NationalsNov 10, 2009