I made the patterns and a first trial (a muslin) for my new 1560s Flemish costume.
So these are not the real fabrics / colors yet.
All patterns are from the book The Tudor Tailor,
(The Tudor Tailor), enlarged to 100% and slightly adjusted to my size....
The fit was not bad at all, but it needs a bit of work, mainly to make it all a bit tighter.
Here are all the layers:
1. Kirtle, worn over the shirt. The skirt and bodice will be 1 garment. I made a side lacing closure.
2. Gown, will have a skirt attached as well. I am changing the front opening shape to wide at the top, narrow at waist.
3. Sleeves, will be pinned to the gown
4. Partlet, this one is much too big, do I am going to look for another pattern.
5. Apron, will not have this shape in the end.
So far not bad at all, next is adjusting the patterns to a perfect fit.
Does my bum look big in this dress? Yes? Good!
In historical fashion (not only in the Renaissance, but up to the 1950s) a narrow waist was the preferred look.
There were many tricks used so even if your waist was not super thin, optically it would look so:
- the waist is laced in (corset, stays) and fabric is smooth without any wrinkles...
- make the shoulders look bigger by making broad shoulders, padded shoulders, large sleeve rolls, large collars
- make the hips look bigger by using a bum roll, hip pad, skirt support, petticoats
- make a sharp pointed shape at the bottom front bodice
- make vertical seams from armhole towards point
Thank you very much Edeltraud Smit for this very nice side view.
Yesterday I started with my new costume.
I decided that I want to make a 16th century Flemish workingclass dress, as you can easily spot in these paintings by Pieter Aertsen and Joachim Beuckelaer, c. 1560.
So I want to make a red gown, underneath a brown kirtle (petticoat), and olive green sleeves.
On top a white and a black partlet and an apron.
Typical about the Flemish dress is that the front of the gown has a wide opening, laced over the contrast colored kirtle or a stomacher.
Also typical is that the partlets are worn over the gown instead of underneath.
I am going to make the garments from the 100% linen antique bed sheets that I bought a while ago. But first I have to dye them.
I am going to use a synthetic dye for time reasons.
Do you remember the Hussar uniform I made last November / December (11th regiment Dutch Hussar Lieutenant, 1812)?
Well, the new owner of the costume completed it now with all the accessories, and he sent me these very nice photos.
- Dolman, pelisse, breeches and vest made by me (Angela Mombers)
- Hessian boots by Ganesha boots...
- Shako by Shakos GBL
- Shoulder belt + pouch and sabre belt by Cooper's Choice (all red leather parts)
- Barrel sash by Farthingale Costumes
- Sabretache unknown
It all looks really great together, thanks Renik for sending me the photos.
Tomorrow it's Ascension Day, so most people have a day off from work.
We are going to visit the National Steam Train Day in Beekbergen, were you can travel between several cities by steam train.
We are going to wear the costumes from this photo. Maybe I will make a long braid in my hair this time, like the photo in below comments....
Photographer: Andrea Aureli.
This photo was made last month, when we visited the historical event De Vestingstedendagen 2018 Grave in the city of Grave.
We are standing on the stairs of the old Town Hall, which was built in c. 1600.
In our group also Peter and Rob (Historie P & R) and my dad at the top.
This nice photo is made by Harm Huinink.
Beautiful photo of Jasper, wearing his new 1560s costume.
I am glad that I finally made a black woolen cloak for him, it will also look great with his black 17th century costume.
Photographer: Adriaan Kastelein.
We always meet alot of nice people at the events, that share our interest in history and love to recreate it.
Unfortunately I don't know the names of these two lovely ladies, but at least we still have the photo.
Photographer: Karel van Houten.
Photo filter added by us.
Nice detailshot of my dress.
The metal 'buttons' on my dress are called 'ouches' and there are hundreds of them on it.
I ordered them specially in the U.S. at TrulyHats, the only company I know that sells them.
This wonderful photo is made by Pim Paparazzi.
Another really nice photo of the both of us in our 1560s clothing.
I think I am going to make a tall hat for Jasper as well, I think it will look very nice with this costume.
Photo made by Lisa Lisette.
This beautiful photo is made inside the Castle Haarzuilens (Kasteel de Haar) and finally a photo of Jasper wearing his 1560s costume.
The photographer is Frank Laurens, thank you Frank for this amazing photo.
I promised to place a full length photo of my new 1560s dress, so here it is.
To get the volume in the skirt, I am wearing a hoop skirt (in the 16th century this would have been a farthingale), a bumroll and several petticoats.
This very nice photo is made by Gea Fotografie.
We had a supernice weekend at Elfia at Castle Haarzuilens. We were wearing our new 1560s /1570s costumes.
Here's already one very nice photo.
I made my dress after the painting of Elizabeth of Austria, by François Clouet, 1571.
This wonderful photo is made by Maarten Kleywegt.